The Papantla Flyers
by Becky Brandborg
 At
the Tulum ruins the Papantla Flyers perform a pre-Hispanic
ritual dedicated to the Sun God. The Papantla Flyers climb
a 90 foot pole to the eerie and haunting sounds of a flute
and a drum. Dressed in their magnificent native costumes these
men lash themselves to the pole with a leather binding and
soar off into space backwards and upside down in the ultimate
leap of faith.
The Papantla Flyers, are Totonac Indians performing an ancient
fertility ceremony. As they slowly descend to earth, the 13
revolutions made by the four flyers equal the 52-year span
of the Aztec century. The flyers represent earth, water, fire
and air, and the interweaving of these four elements symbolizes
the creation of new life. A fifth man is left on top, dancing
on this tiny nine-inch platform while simultaneously playing
both a pre-Columbian flute and drum. This is a treat not to
be missed. You can also see the flies at Xcaret.
 There
are 150,000 pure Totonac Indians left in Mexico, and a number
of troupes of dancers and flyers tour the country on a regular
basis performing their authentic rituals. Interestingly performances
are often presented as ancient games rather than rituals.
In reality, these dances, like many other pre-Columbian religious
rites, were disguised as simple games by the Totonacs after
the Spanish conquest. This kept the Christian missionaries
from learning that the Indians were still practicing their
pagan ceremonies.
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